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Hanoi can be a charming city and has a totally different feel to Saigon. It's very likely you'll have to spend at least some time there, as its the main arrival/departure hub for Halong Bay, Sapa, and Ninh Binh.
People seem to have a slightly harder edge to them here compared to the rest of Vietnam - you'll notice it if you've spent time in Saigon or the provinces first - but they're friendly and outgoing; if you sit around in cafes or bars here, you'll be surprised at how many people approach you for a chat.
The city these days is quite sprawling, but its heart is the old quarter which is easily covered on foot - narrow, chaotic streets, plenty of places to eat on the street and great fun to wander around.
What to see, what to do? Take a walk around Hoan Kiem Lake, or Lenin park, and watch the Hanoians exercising and relaxing.
Get your museum fix: we really like the Women's Museum - you can really appreciate the active role women played in the American war after a visit here. If you still want more, there is always the Ho Chi Minh Museum, or the Museum of the Vietnamese Revolution, and more...
Check out a performance of the famous Hoi An water puppets for some traditional Vietnamese music, then get lost wandering the old quarter and experience some of the great street food on offer.
We Love: Drinking Bia Hoi (local cheap draft beer) on the streets of the old quarter - as cheap as 5 cents a glass, and a friendly chat with a few Hanoians is included in the price.